I need to feed my fishes

How Often Should I Feed My Betta Fish? How Much?

When it comes to adopting a new pet, it’s important to take the time to learn and understand the basics of taking care of them. Luckily for betta fish, there aren’t too many factors you need to know about taking care of them and care is fairly straight forward.

Bettas need a good amount of space, a nice warm and clean tank, and need to be fed regularly.

Betta food comes in different varieties and whichever you choose will require a different amount of feeding. Not only that, feeding can depend on how large the betta will grow up to be and how much exercise the betta gets.

We’ve been keeping Bettas for about 2 years now, and have tried a few different combinations of feeds as well as different amounts of feeding. Both of our fish require different amounts of feed, even though they share the same tank size and some shared types of scenery.

This just shows how different feeding can be from fish to fish, even when they are in similar circumstances/spaces.

THE BETTA’S STOMACH

With every animal, you’re going to want to make sure you understand how big their stomach is. Similar to us, every animal has a bit of stretch to their stomach, so they will be able to overeat a bit, but it will be uncomfortable.

Think about every time you’ve been to an all-you-can-eat restaurant and overate. You probably felt extremely tired, unable to move and immediately began regretting it. Well, the same can be said fish who overeat.

Overfeeding can lead to a number of issues including lethargy, obesity and constipation. Overeating can also be fatal to a betta fish and will often lead to a number of illnesses you’ll want to keep track of.

Most commonly betta fish who are overfed will begin to bloat. In extreme conditions of bloat, a betta fish may start to literally float upside down close to the top of the tank.

Floating betta fish will often be unable to move from the position they are in and so they are often deemed as dead by inexperienced Betta keepers. Though bloating is fairly common it is 100% avoidable.

It is important to take note that betta fish have very small stomachs. Their stomachs are around the same size as their eyes. This makes it extremely easy to overfeed your betta fish, especially if you are feeding pellets that expand.

HOW MANY PELLETS SHOULD I FEED MY BETTA FISH?

It can be a bit difficult to tell how many pellets you should feed your betta fish as feeding requirements will depend on the size of the pellet.

If the packaging of your pellets has instructions as to how many pellets your betta should get, split this up into two feedings. If you take note that your betta fish is too skinny, feel free to raise the amount of feed.

A betta fish should never have a pouch or a belly that hangs. This is a sign of overfeeding or bloatedness. If you ever take note of this, begin reducing the amount of feeding by a few pellets.

It is also recommended that you presoak all pellets you feed your betta so they expand before your feed your betta. This will ensure that you see the full-size of the pellet and do not overfeed. In many cases, overfeeding occurs because the fish owner does not realize that the pellet expands in the betta fish’s stomach, often creating discomfort.

Now, this isn’t to say that soaking your pellets is an absolute must. If you know how much your betta eats/needs to eat on a regular basis it is okay to let them have the unsoaked pellet.

On average a betta owner will be feed between 3-6 pellets at a time. As mentioned, if a pellet is larger, it is a better idea to feed it in a smaller quantity throughout the day. If pellets are small, it is okay to feed them in higher quantities, though I would still recommend feeding them a few times a day.

I personally feed my betta fish 3 pellets at a time, twice a day. This is due to the fact that Blub is living in a smaller sized tank (2.5 Gallons). While Blub is usually swimming around, he doesn’t overexert like a fish in a 5 or 10 gallon would, so he doesn’t need much more food.

As mentioned the more exercise your Betta gets, the more they will want to eat. Just make sure you do not feed more than 12-pellets a day, no matter what size tank.

If your Betta gets a lot of exercise throughout the day and you want to make sure that they are never hungry, make sure to spread out feedings.

INCREASING OR REDUCING YOUR BETTA’S FOOD & LEFTOVER FOOD

Make sure you’re watching your Betta see how fast he or she is eating their food. If your Betta doesn’t finish all of their food within a couple of minutes consider reducing the amount you’re feeding them.

Spoiled food isn’t good for a Betta and will increase the toxicity of the water they live in. Spoiled food will make the water more acidic than Bettas want/need. This will often cause a betta fish to become lethargic or worse, develop a disease.

If food is left over after feeding, make sure to scoop it out with a net. This will help make sure that no food rots in the tank.

Try your best not to let the feed sink to the bottom. It can be especially difficult to get the food out from gravel without doing a 100% water change. You can try using a Water Changer/Gravel Cleaner, especially if you are noticing a build-up of residue from food.

How often or how much should I feed my Koi and Pond Fish?

When, Where, and What Works Best
By Dr. Erik Johnson

There are notable differences between the way koi and goldfish tend to eat. Of course, there are a lot of similarities too. Either way, there are many useful things for you to know about how, when, and where to fed koi and goldfish!

An Appetite for Foraging
Koi and goldfish eat a lot, but goldfish are better foragers. If you took two identical ponds and you neglected to feed both ponds equally, the population in the koi pond would die out faster than the population in the goldfish pond. Part of the reason is that koi eat more, so they starve faster. Part of the reason is that goldfish will find food anywhere, including swimming prey like rotifers, fish fry, and insect larva. Koi, on the other hand, tend not to identify or attack small prey like that. Their usual foraging method is bottom sifting, and if the pond has no aggregate or mud on the bottom, there will be no natural forage. Most people would be very surprised by the amount of live fish food that can be found living in the gravel of a properly maintained gravel-bottom pond.

Overfeeding
The most common feeding mistake is overfeeding. This is because the feeding process is arguably the most fun you can have with your fish. At feeding time, koi come up to eat so you can see them and interact with them. Anyone with a maternal instinct will be thrilled to watch their favorite fish engulf food with such koi-ish zeal.

Overfeeding occurs anytime the fish are eating more than they need. This can make your fish sick, and excessive amounts of waste that strains the limits of what can be biologically reduced, results in a decline of water quality. Fish that are overfed in typical ornamental pond facilities will eventually develop large bellies and begin to look a little bit like tadpoles, with the big body and the wispy tail. That will not usually kill the fish, but the impact on the liver and other internal organs can and will be severe. So How Much is Just Right?

Fish should be fed no more than three times per day. In cooler water (65-70) they should only be fed once per day, if that. In much warmer water (76-82), three times per day is not «crazy,»‘ however, you have to be wary of bacterial blooms (cloudy water and low oxygen levels) if you feed heavy and there’s a lot of waste.

Fish should be fed for about five minutes per feeding. If they don’t come up and eat voraciously, they are telling you that they are too cold, too warm or, for some other reason, are not hungry. So feed light. If they are eating like crazy, you can sprinkle food on the water for five minutes as long as there are fish there to carry it off and eat it. Pretend it’s a game – never feed so much that there is excess food left to float into the skimmer or filter.

Underfeeding
Sometimes a person is very busy and they may neglect to feed the fish every day. This impacts the very large fish, which in summer, will rapidly lose weight as their metabolism is working without enough calories for their big bodies. It also affects very small fish, which will be stunted or, in extreme cases, die. Fish in ponds with natural forage and some plant material will help themselves to nature’s bounty and are less dependent on their human owners for nourishment.

If your fish are growing about a ½ to 1 inch per month, you’re feeding enough. If not, you are either underfeeding, keeping them in too small facilities, or the food is not adequate to push growth. Signs of underfeeding include, heads that are wider than bodies, slightly sunken eyes, a kink at the base of the tail, poor color, thinness, trailing white stools, and inactivity.

Feeding in Cold Water
Fish will feel hungry in cold water, even down to the mid 40’s, however the enzymes needed for the digestion of most koi food will be lacking. The fish will eat, sometimes fully, and then languor in the cold water as their metabolism slogs the food through. In very cold water, fish simply don’t eat.

If the food is going to be processed by cold fish with impaired metabolism, it makes sense to offer foods that are easily and quickly digestible and contain minimal residue to stall their gut. Over the years, soluble plant proteins like wheat germ were found to be effective, and so were Cheerios. Fish love Cheerios, especially the Honey Nut Cheerios. Try it, you will see they go for the darker, tastier(?) Honey Nut Cheerios over the plain ones. And they can tell when you buy generic Cheerios. But it’s okay.

The point of Cheerios is that they supply some useful energy, with minimal nitrogen to strain a cold biological filtration system, and the fish like ’em. A lot. In my own pond, I’ve noticed that Cheerios are sort of fattening when offered with regular food year round, so if you want to put some weight on a big female fish, especially through her face, give her some Cheerios with her regular diet through the year.

In cold water I recommend that you:

  1. Reduce feeding drastically in water under 70 but above 64 Fahrenheit. Feed sparingly once per day or every other day. Watch for elevations in Ammonia because of a stalled bio filtration.
  2. Feed Cheerios once, every other day in water under 64 but above 53 DF.
  3. Stop feeding when water temps are consistently under 55 — 53 DF
  4. Resume feeding Cheerios in the Spring when water temps are consistently at or above 55 — 53 DF

Feeding in Warm Water
Feeding fish in warm water is an interesting conundrum. The fish NEED a lot of food because they are burning a LOT of calories. The pond’s biological reduction system is optimized and working ferociously on fish wastes. But warmer water carries less oxygen. Feeding Koi a lot of food in the warm months is desirable, and it ensures good health and growth. But if you go too far, and overfeed them, the water quality will deteriorate, and if you overfeed enough, there can be a sudden bloom of bacteria that will:

  1. Cloud the water
  2. Weaken or stress the fish
  3. Consume much, if not all, of the available dissolved oxygen.
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Don’t take the low oxygen level lightly, because even after many seasons without a problem, you can get into trouble. I did this one summer. I fed heavily and the fish were doing well. What I did not acknowledge was that my oxygen levels were TEETERING in the danger zone because of the high use of oxygen by the fish, the heavy feeding, the biological bacteria doing it’s thing, and the warmth of the water. I went to net my favorite fish, and she simply stroked out for lack of oxygen in her peak metabolic condition and then compounded by warm water and the chase.

What Can You Do?
Well, waterfalls do a lot to contribute oxygen to the scenario. So breathe a sigh of relief if you have a robust waterfall or two. Additional water pumping with a spray bar can increase oxygen. If the pond is in filtered sunlight or only gets baked for part of the day, it will be cooler, and therefore contain more oxygen. In the hot south and southwest, a shade cloth can be used to cool the water if needed. Feeding heavily, but being alert about it, is an ingredient for success.

Where to Feed.
In the day-to-day experience of ponding, where to feed can be significant. Many people feed the fish all at once, near the skimmer. Because they don’t know about sprinkling the food for five minutes, they dump the whole coffee-can of food four feet from their skimmer and off it goes. Hungry fish living in polluted water is the result. Skimmers a great, don’t get me wrong, but if there’s a place you can feed the fish where it doesn’t migrate to the skimmer too quickly, choose that space instead.

Proper Food Storage
Sometimes you luck out and get a deal on bulk foods. Too bad. I do not recommend that you buy big bags of food unless your fish can eat it all in a season or you can keep 45 pounds of food in the fridge. Of course, if you can, do it! Otherwise, the fish food sits in the bag in a «cool dark place» and weevils hatch in it and the food is lost. Or mold grows in it, and it’s lost. Or, the cats ( or mice) tear out the bottom corner of the bag and the food spreads across the floor of the garage like a cancer. Can you tell I’ve, «been there, done that»?

If you do buy fish food in large quantities refrigerate it, don’t freeze it. Freezing damages (think freezer burn) the fats in the food and so the fat-soluble vitamins are compromised.

Foods which are packed in nitrogen (no oxygen) by the manufacturer are better than food which is in cans with oxygen. If you can find food which has a bag that allows expression of air from the bag and resealing, that is optimal.

What About Old Food?
If food begins to smell «funny,» develops a fuzz on it, changes color, sticks together or crumbles down, it’s old or «bad» and should be discarded. Feeding «bad» food will cause a lot of problems with your fish, because much of what grows in fish foods produces what are known as aflatoxins, which can cause injury, deficiency, and broken backs in fish that eat these spoiled foods. Truly, it’s better for your fish to go hungry while waiting for you to get fresh food, rather than being fed spoiled food

What Protein Is and Does
So, we’ve talked about feeding, now let’s talk nutrition. What’s in food and what does it do?

Protein is what your cells are made of. Muscle cells provide the most protein – that’s why most humans and animals eat meat (muscle). Protein helps regenerate red and white blood cells, which have a finite life span in the blood stream. So, how does the fish replace these cells in winter when it’s not eating? Very difficult. This is one reason why spring is often fraught with disease.

Studies have been done which compared the digestion of protein in fish. They tested, among others, chicken, fish, plant, and beef protein and you will not be surprised to know that fish proteins were the best digested and assimilated by fish. Fish eat fish. This makes sense because the incidence of fish leaping onto shore and eating cows is very, very low to non-existent. Fish are adapted to the consumption of others in their food chain. So fish proteins are the best for fish.

So when you look at a bag of food and the first ingredient is wheat, that’s not the best choice for your fish. Wheat protein is not equal to fish protein. So keep looking. You should look for fish or aquacultural proteins as the first ingredient in a decent diet for your koi and goldfish.

Fish can digest corn. But their bodies do not assimilate it as well as fish proteins in fact, they might not assimilate it at all if an amino acid is missing from the protein in the food.

So, Plant Proteins in Koi Food Are Bad?
Not at all! There are three common purposes for plant material in the food. Fiber, protein, and energy (carbohydrate) are all functions of plant proteins. When a company puts corn in a diet just for protein, that’s bad. But when wheat, soy, or corn meals are used in addition to aquacultural proteins to provide some protein and some energy it’s a «good thing» because proteins in corn, soy, or wheat are very different from proteins in a feed ingredient like shrimp or blood meal.

Corn protein may be very heavy in leucine or lysine. While shrimp meal may be heavy in sulfur-containing amino acids and very low in lysine. Therefore, proteins from both plant and animal proteins ensure that all essential amino acids are represented and make it complete. At the same time, plant proteins can contribute needed energy in the form of carbohydrates as well ad bringing fiber to the equation.

So, you might see fishmeal as the first ingredient in a diet. Then lower on the list you might see wheat germ, or soybean meal, or corn gluten meal. Don’t be put off by these dual-purpose ingredients.

Fats
Fat is important in a diet to carry energy and soluble vitamins to the fish. Fat supplies a dense energy source. However, fat is a dangerous component in foods because when it gets too high, it can cause the food to spoil more easily, and can even function as «moisture» for the growth of certain moulds. So manufacturers are very careful about the fat and moisture content of foods. Fat content of 3 to 9 percent are safe, reasonable levels.

Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates are the immediate energy source for the fish. Due to their carnivorous nature, fish tend to be poor at utilizing carbohydrate so they may store it in the muscle or discharge it in the waste. This doesn’t change the fact that it’s important although it’s usually not listed as a percentage on most fish food labels.

Minerals
Much discussion exists about the mineral requirements of fish. I personally recommend that if a food for koi contains some extra calcium and low phosphorous, it could be considered «better» than a food that pays no attention to the calcium and phosphorus.

Vitamins
Important vitamins seem to be fat soluble A,D,E, and K — and vitamin C. Vitamin deficiencies from missing vitamins are comparatively rare in the last two decades. This is because vitamin premixes exist in the processing of fish food that have eliminated most of the mystery and a lot of the onerous expense. When these vitamins are deficient, it can result in lesions of the skin, eyes, and nervous system.

Vitamin C is not so mysterious. Addition of vitamin C to the diet of koi and goldfish is a beneficial for several reasons. First, it’s essential to the fish and is a major contribution to disease resistance. Second, food processing degrades vitamin C so that a surplus has to be added so a sufficient amount survives the processing of the food. If available over 180 milligrams per kilogram, the immune system is not only supported, but dramatically enhanced.

Assessing an Ingredients Label
Ingredients labels can be very exciting, or very misleading. They can be exciting because they seem to report excellent ingredients and real care and attention in manufacture. Misleading labels use techniques like ingredient splitting and foreign law to dupe the consumer. Come with me to the store and we shall assess a label together in nine steps.

Assessing the Fish Food Label: Step-By-Step

  • Assessment 1: Protein source. Look for fishmeal, squid meal, whitefish meal, anchovy meal, shrimp meal, blood meal, herring meal or other aquaculture protein as first ingredients. These are the best protein sources for fish and are the ones I recommend.
  • Assessment 2: Purpose of plant material. If you find a food that has no aquaculture protein but it has two plant proteins, then the manufacturer is trying to get cheaper plant ingredients to do what fishmeal should be doing. However, if you find a food with fish meal as the first ingredient and then wheat germ meal or similar, they are using the plant ingredient for protein AND energy, letting the fishmeal carry the bulk of the protein requirement, which is as it should be. There will be some plant protein in most foods. It’s used as a helper, dual-purpose ingredient and it’s not to be eschewed.
  • Assessment 3: Ingredient splitting. Look for any ingredient twice on the list. If you were manufacturing a food and found wheat to be cheaper than fishmeal, you would want to use wheat to save money. But, you know the consumers want the fishmeal to be first on the list. So you split the wheat! Here’s an example: A fish food has three pounds of wheat and two pounds of fish meal would have the ingredients listed in order by weight. To get around this, the manufacturer splits the wheat in half and lists it as two different forms of wheat. So that label reads, fish meal, wheat germ, wheat flour (in that order). This makes it appear to the consumer that the food contains a higher amount of aquaculture than any other ingredient.
  • Assessment 4: Protein percent. Let’s say a company who is tailoring a feed to the prevailing market-climate wants to use four aquacultural proteins, and tosses in shrimp, kelp, spirulina, and squid meal. That would be awesome! But it could jack up the proteins to a level unsuitable for fish, or at least unnecessary (and expensive). Koi can’t digest more than 32 to 36 percent protein in one pass. Feeding more than that isn’t necessarily a bad thing because fish will simply pass what they don’t digest – it’s just expensive to pay for. So, looking for minimums, and recognizing that an outrageously high protein percentage you might be paying for is unnecessary.
  • Assessment 5: Fat content. Find a food between 3 to 10 percent crude fat. The high end of this range is good for smaller fish, and the lower end of the range is good for adult fish. * Assessment 6: Ascorbic acid. Make sure ascorbic acid, or L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate is on the label among the trailing ingredients. It will represent a very small part of the diet but it should be added to any milled food.
  • Assessment 7: Immune boosters. Some foods are made with immune boosters. These are certainly harmless and they may very well perform as promised depending on which ones we’re talking about. Look for any combination of following supposed immune-boosting ingredients: Optimun, Aquagen, Nucleotides, Torula Yeast, Brewer’s Yeast, Bee Propolis, Colostrum, Aspergillus niger, beta carotene, lactoferrin. Don’t hang your hat on any particular ingredient as a miracle supplement or lifesaver – okay? Just recognize that the addition of these items represents the manufacturer as a little more attentive and knowledgeable, and the food worth a little extra money.
  • Assessment 8: Color enhancers. Are there color enhancers in the diet? Look for terms like Spirulina, Bio-Red, BetaCarotene, Canthaxanthin, Marigold petals, Xanthins, Shrimp Oil, Synthetic and Non Synthetic Carotenoids, or Color Enhancers on the label. Generally, the shrimp oil is the most expensive. It performs as well or better than the synthetic carotenoids but either is acceptable. Spirulina cannot push color unless the fish are exposed to sunlight. None of these color enhancers are hazardous to fish but can make a fish with a yellow head more yellow or a fish with a tendency towards pink pinker. No color enhancer can replace the irrefutable contribution of genetics and sunlight to color.
  • Assessment 9: Ash content if stated. Sometimes companies will level with you and tell you the «crap» content of their food. Ash is what’s left behind when you incinerate (or the fish digests) the food. It’s almost all carbon and mineral. So the higher the ash number, the less likely one is to appreciate it. Generally, when ash is high, a smart label guy would just leave it off, and they are allowed to because it’s not required on fish food bags.
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An oddity about pellet size
Small fish need small pellets that they can wholly engulf, but they will spend time chasing the biggest pellets. It would be better for the fish if they were given a small pellet they could entirely engulf. They could fill their stomachs instead of scraping off a meal over a lengthy time.

Can small fish eat large pellet? Yes, but that is only by badgering the large pellet around the surface of the pond as it softens in the water, and eating off it like a giant peach.

Koi Treats
There are a lot of fish «treats» on the market. How much of it has actually been tried and how much is theory, I shudder to think, so I am only going to comment on what I personally have given my fish.

  • Silkworm pupae – Available in various places and comes in sealed, silver bags. This delicacy drives koi crazy. Really, really nutty. They love them. I guess when a silkworm gets old and stops making silk, it is «history» and is freeze-dried for koi. Lip-smacking good, I guess. Fed in abundance, the protein can accumulate a good bit of nitrogen (ammonia) in the water, so please check ammonias if you’re going crazy feeding silkworm pupae.
  • Grapefruit – Cut the grapefruit into quarters. They’ll float and the fish will be attracted at once. Watch out to make sure the skins don’t jam up a pump or clog your skimmer. Fed too much, the vitamin C acid will scorch the lips of your fish to a pale pink color, no harm – just back off with the grapefruit. Once per week is plenty.
  • Watermelon – They liked it but not as much as grapefruit. It doesn’t supply much nutrition so I have not done this as much as grapefruit.
  • Orange slices – Big fish will earnestly take mandarin orange slices right out of your hand. Very cool, delicious to the fish, I guess, and loaded in vitamin C. Larger seedless oranges can be cut as Grapefruit and will do as well..
  • Peas – The pain in the neck to me about these was that they sank fast and if the koi didn’t see them go in, they miss them on the bottom. So there’s the chance of wasting the peas and polluting the pond. So make sure you let the fish know you’re there, and «here come the peas.» They say that the peas could be skinned. Yeah, sure, I have time for that, how about you? My loi liked the peas quite a bit, when they realized they were there.
  • Romaine – Nutritionally invisible, but perhaps the least messy of «greens» for the fish to munch on if you like them to have something to eat like that. Don’t bother with iceberg lettuce. Get the darkest romaine you can and cut it into six-inch strips of the thinness suitable for your fish. They will chomp on the thick centerspines of the leaf later.
  • Hyacinths – Delicious to koi. Cut off the roots because they are a mess. I repeat, cut off the roots. Then fracture the plant so it’s barely hanging together and toss it on the pond upside down, foliage in the water. The larger koi especially will eat the youngest leaves first and then pretty much annihilate the whole plant. Do not offer roots because the koi will rip them up and send them directly to your pump’s impeller, which could choke to death.
  • Duckweed – Koi and goldfish love this, and will eat all of this – if they can. In really large ponds a balance may be struck where the koi cannot or will not eat all of it, but in a standard sized (about 11′ x 14′) pond, duckweed will be a short-lived commodity. If you want, it’s easily grow outside their abode in vats, baby pools, and tubs in a sunny spot with six inches water. The water should be fairly well circulated, and throw in a handful of koi food for fertilizer.
  • Worms – Koi eat earthworms, Georgia reds, nightcrawlers, pinks, and others. Some people say that you should drown the worms in water first because the «hazardous soil» is expelled from the worm when it drowns and then goes flaccid. Uh, my fish wouldn’t eat them dead, either. Fresh, active earthworms are well accepted and safe and when the first koi hits a worm, the rest quickly catch on.
  • Fish – Koi can be trained to like fish. A very good friend of mine feeds his koi thawed sardines chopped up. Nutritious? YES! And sardines (being from salt water) are less likely to carry parasites applicable to koi. So, again, in moderation, these treats are okay for koi, and certainly well enjoyed.
  • Cheerios – We discussed Cheerios in the winter-feeding section but let me restate that ANY time of year, koi will appreciate Honey Nut Cheerios as a treat. It is low residue and low nitrogen, what’s not to love? A+
  • Chicken – Yes, I did this. It wasn’t a smashing success. I ate the fried part (duh) and gave them the white meat, in pinches. They looked at it and swam around it a while and then hit it with pretty good gusto. But it made some debris when they chewed it with their back teeth and wasn’t «loved» so I include it here as something they’ll take, but not necessarily love.

Is there anything I probably should NOT feed Koi as a treat?
I’ve heard that grapes can contain some oxalates and that apple seeds contain cyanide. The math on these says that if you got a koi to eat a cubic meter of grapes or appleseeds in a day’s time, said koi could perish from the crystallization of the oxalates in his kidney. For your information, a koi that could eat a cubic meter of grapes in a day would measure about forty-two feet long and weigh in at 2,300 pounds. So my advice on koi treats is, «If you would eat it, and the fish can eat it without it dissolving in, or polluting the pond, try it, and see if they like it. Don’t feed any treat so much as to replace their interest in nutritionally complete staple food.»

Koi Cannibalism
Well, what discussion of koi nutrition would be complete unless we talked about the koi’s more jocular habits of eating fry, frogs and each other? More fantastic than fact, here are some things you might not know. Large Koi and large frogs In the spring you can hear spring peepers in your pond and low areas of your yard or the woods. In the cold months of spring they spawn and lay strands of eggs. And sometimes, they get in your pond, and a big koi catches one. Or, like at my house, all the koi catch one. And so you get up in the morning and one of your koi has a pair of frog legs sticking out of its mouths and they like the taste pretty good, but they can’t work it down. So they swim around with the frogs in their mouths like pacifiers. Some of the largest fish can get the frogs down, some eventually spit them out and you have to net them out or they will decay and make a mess.

Koi fry and the Cannibals
Finally, you should know this about baby koi. A momma koi will lay many tens of thousands of eggs per spawn. And her babies will be very numerous. And these fry mature at differing rates. The brown solid-colored babies will mature faster than the bright solid-colored fish and these babies will mature more quickly than any two or three colored fish. So it happens that often you see several much-larger baby fish in a spawn swimming about with a tiny sibling tail in its mouth. These cannibals eat prodigiously and the more they eat the bigger they get and the faster they get there. So breeders know to remove these cannibals. If you don’t you will have a nice collection of Ogons and no multicolored fish in a spawn. So koi can be cannibalistic when they’re fry. Later in life, it would be exceedingly rare to see a large koi eat a small one.

Few, a few, little, a little – упражнения на употребление в английском языке

Предлагаю вам подборку несложных упражнений на отработку правил употребления few и a few / little и a little в английском языке. Ко всем упражнениям есть ответы в конце статьи.

Если вам нужно повторить правило – сделать это можно здесь.

Если же необходимо просто освежить в памяти – воспользуйтесь этой инфографикой.

Также в конце статьи вы найдете 2 небольших теста по 10 вопросов в каждом на проверку темы few, a few, little, a little.

Упражнения (Exercises) на употребление few, a few, little, a little

Упражнение 1. Укажите правильный вариант – few или a few.

  1. A few/few people swim in the sea in the winter.
  2. He went out a few/few minutes ago.
  3. Can I speak to you for a few/few minutes?
  4. There were a few/few guests at the party. The hosts were unhappy.
  5. I’m going shopping. I need to buy a few/few things for tonight’s party.

Упражнение 2. Укажите правильный вариант – little или a little.

  1. I need a little/little Can you lend me some?
  2. I can’t wait for you. I’ve got a little/little
  3. You have a little/little time to finish the test. You must write faster.
  4. I have a little/little free time for hobbies because I work a lot.
  5. You don’t have to hurry. There is alittle/little traffic at this time of the day.
  6. There is a little/little snow on the ground. The children can’t make a snowman.

Упражнение 3. Вставьте few или a few

  1. Susan has ________ friends. She doesn’t feel lonely.
  2. You have _________ mistakes in the test. Correct them!
  3. There are ________ puddles on the road. Let’s put on rubber boots.
  4. _______ apples are enough for me not to feel hungry.
  5. We will come back in __________ days.
  6. The weather was bad, but ________people came.
  7. I really need to see him. I’ve got …………… questions to ask him.

Упражнение 4. Вставьте little или a little.

  1. There is ________ bread in the cupboard. It’s enough for dinner.
  2. The bottle was not empty. ________ water was left.
  3. Would you like _________ water?
  4. There is still _________ bread left.
  5. Can I have _________ milk in my coffee? I like white.
  6. There is still _________ work to do.

Упражнение 5. Вставьте a few or a little.

  1. There are only _________ biscuits left.
  2. There is ________ traffic here.
  3. It’s winter, but we still have ________ flowers in the garden.
  4. There were _________ taxis in front of the station.
  5. Can I have_________ pepper, please?
  6. She can give us_______ help.
  7. Put ______ salt and mix the ingredients.
  8. There are ______ bottles on the table.

Упражнение 6. Выберите правильный вариант ответа в тестовом задании.

  1. I eat _______ meat. I prefer fish. (A – very few / B – a few / C — very little)
  2. There are ________apples on the plate. Take one (A – a few / B – a lot / C — a little)
  3. There is ______ milk in the fridge. Can you buy some? (A – a few / B – a little / C — little)
  4. Very _______ pupils in our class can do such difficult sums. (A – few / B – a few / C — little)
  5. There is _______ furniture in the house; it’s almost empty. (A – a few / B – a little / C — little)

Упражнение 7. Вставьте few, a few, little, a little.

  1. Would you like some beer? Just_______ please.
  2. If you want to make pancakes, you need _______ eggs and _______ flour.
  3. Would you like _______ more rice?
  4. I bought _______ newspapers.
  5. I’d like to drink _______ coffee.
  6. This boy isn’t very popular at school. He’s got very _______ friends

Проверочные тесты на тему few и a few / little и a little (2 варианта).

Вариант 1. Вставьте few, a few, little, a little.

  1. There are______ hotels in this town. There is almost nowhere to stay for the tourists.
  2. Have you got ______ minutes? I need to talk to you.
  3. Could you buy ______ bottles of water for me?
  4. We had ______ snow last winter. We made snowmen.
  5. We have______ tomatoes, we can’t cook tomato-soup.
  6. The professor spends ______ time in company. He likes to be alone.
  7. They have ______ furniture in the room. The room is almost empty.
  8. I want to eat ______ I’m hungry.
  9. We saw ______ people at the restaurant because the prices there were very high.
  10. This is a modern town. There are only ______ old buildings.

Вариант 2. Вставьте few, a few, little, a little.

  1. My parents give me ______ pocket money every week, so I can buy everything I need.
  2. All we need is ______
  3. ______ animals can survive in the desert.
  4. Could we have ______ champagne, please?
  5. They’ve already been to Spain for ______
  6. At home, the kitchen was a pleasant place. There were always ______ flowers in pots.
  7. ‘How’s your father ?’ ‘ ______ better, thanks.’
  8. ‘Sandra is fluent in Italian, French and Spanish.’ ‘It’s quite rare, ______ people can speak several foreign languages.’
  9. Can you please buy _______ apples.
  10. I only need ______ minutes to get ready.
В школе этого не расскажут:  Спряжение глагола affilier во французском языке.

Ответы к упражнениям и тестовым заданиям.

Exercise 1. 1 – few, 2 — a few, 3 — a few, 4 — few, 5 — a few

Exercise 2. 1 – a little, 2 – little, 3 – little, 4 – little, 5 – little, 6 — little

Exercise 3. 1 – a few, 2 – a few, 3 – a few, 4 – a few, 5 – a few, 6 – a few, 7 – a few

Exercise 4. 1 – a little, 2 – a little, 3 – a little, 4 a little, 5 – a little, 6 – a little

Exercise 5. 1 – a few, 2 – a little, 3 – a few, 4 – a few, 5 – a little, 6 – a little, 7 – a little, 8 – a few

Exercise 6. 1 – c, 2 – a, 3 – с, 4 – a, 5 — c

Exercise 7. 1 – a little, 2 – a few / a little, 3 – a little, 4 a few, 5 a little, 6 few

Ответы к тесту

Вариант 1

1 – few, 2 a few, 3 a few, 4 a little, 5 few, 6 little, 7 little, 8 a little, 9 few, 10 a few

Вариант 2

1 – a little, 2 – a little, 3 few, 4 a little, 5 a few, 6 a few, 7 a little, 8 few, 9 a few, 10 – a few

Вот и все. Надеюсь, вам понравились эти упражнения на употребления few и a few / little и a little в английском языке.

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4 Комментариев для «Few, a few, little, a little – упражнения на употребление в английском языке»

Зачем вы в упражнении 3 и 4 запихнули только единственный вариант ответа? Это абсолютно не логично.

Ну вот чтобы вы засомневались.

Здравствуйте, в 5-м упражнении в первом предложении «There are only _________ biscuits left.» должно стоять «few». Т.к. few — это мало, недостаточно. А в предложении есть слово «only», у нас осталось только чуть-чуть печенок, недостаточно.

Добрый день. Верный ответ a few — только несколько, а не только мало (так будет звучать ваш вариант с few)

I need to feed my fishes

What kind of food does each type of fish eat ? I’ve checked the wiki but found no information about this.

If I recall correctly someone said that Goliath won’t eat dough and only eat bug eggs from Mr.Ladybugs

What about other fishes like:
Frog Fish
Banner Fish
Bubblefish
Lantern Fish
Koi Fish
Wise Fish

Catfish : Dough ✓ / Bug eggs?
Golden Salmon : Dough ✓ / Bug eggs?
Blade Fish : Dough ✓ / Bug eggs?
Goliath : Dough X / Bug eggs ✓

I have successfully bred 1 goliath by feeding a pair 3 dough per fish day unless I come home after midnight, then for some reason the tank hints show hungry until I add an additional 4 dough per fish. So far all the fish I have tried ate either dough or bug eggs. Does anyone have more info on amounts? I’m considering it a success if I can keep a pair alive long enough to reproduce:

Goliath: 3 food units per fish
Golden Salmon: 1 food unit per fish
Banner Fish: 1 food unit per fish
Blade Fish: 2 food units per fish
Bubble Fish: 1 food unit so far haven’t reproduced yet.

I have successfully bred 1 goliath by feeding a pair 3 dough per fish day unless I come home after midnight, then for some reason the tank hints show hungry until I add an additional 4 dough per fish. So far all the fish I have tried ate either dough or bug eggs. Does anyone have more info on amounts? I’m considering it a success if I can keep a pair alive long enough to reproduce:

Goliath: 3 food units per fish
Golden Salmon: 1 food unit per fish
Banner Fish: 1 food unit per fish
Blade Fish: 2 food units per fish
Bubble Fish: 1 food unit so far haven’t reproduced yet.

So Goliath do eat Dough ? but more ammount than other fishes ?
I have 4 tanks in my house 3 of them are filled with
— Catfish
— Golden Salmon
— Blade Fish
Each tank has 3-4 fish, I usually feed them at midnight (sometimes past midnight) and they eat 3-4 dough per time, and they do reproducing without dying. So I’m assuming that those fishes eat 1 dough per 1(fish) ?

The reason I created this thread is because the 4th tank I had has an Empire Wise Fish in it, I didn’t see it shows the hungry icon in the tank for 2 days, but I do feed it once when I put the fish inside, 2 days later the fish died. I guess he dies because of loneliness ? Jk I think the Wise Fish (or the Empire version) only eats Bug Eggs ?

How to Easily Feed Your Fish on Vacation

Last Updated on October 21, 2020 by Ian Sterling 10 Comments

Let’s face it, an aquarium isn’t exactly travel friendly.

I mean, try slipping past a TSA agent with a fish tank in your possession – assuming you can carry it, that is!

The last time I flew, I was grilled just for having an open water bottle in my bag. Imagine what they would have done if I was carrying my fully stocked reef tank!

If you are planning your vacation, you only have one real option:

Leaving your fish at home.

And that can be a terrifying thought…

Spending your entire vacation worrying about how your fish are doing.

Today, I have something that will allow you to vacation in peace:

Three simple tricks you can use to keep your fish fed and happy while you are away from home.

It doesn’t matter if your fish are in a pond, saltwater or freshwater tank – all three of these options will work for you.

So, enjoy your vacation knowing full well that your fish won’t starve.

Contents

Should you feed your fish when you go on vacation?

Believe it or not, many fish can survive for weeks on end without food.

Let’s face it – fish in captivity have the good life!

Would your fish have food hand delivered to them in the wild?

In the wild, fish have it a whole lot tougher…

A good meal might not come along for days or even weeks.

Eating daily is a luxury.

So, exactly how long can fish survive without food?

Almost any fish can go two to three days without eating – many experienced fishkeepers will happily leave their fish for this length of time without feeding.

That’s good news if you are planning a mini weekend vacation.

But what if you want to vacation for longer?

What is the maximum amount of time you can go without feeding your fish?

As always, when it comes to fishkeeping, the answer isn’t black and white.

Just how long your fish can go without eating before they starve depends on the following:

  • 1. Size/age
  • 2. Herbivore/carnivore
  • 3. Type of fish

The size and age of your fish often determine how long they can go without eating. To put it simply, larger/older fish have more fat reserves they can draw on when times are tough. Big cichlids can go a lot longer without food than pencilfish.

Another factor is what your fish eats. Herbivores (plant eaters) will eat every day while carnivores (meat eaters) tend to go days between meals.

These are not hard and fast rules and can vary according to the type of fish in your tank.

But there is a trick you can use to determine how long your fish can survive without eating…

What I mean by this is, how long will your vacation be?

Three days? A week? Two weeks?

However long, this is the goal of your trial period.

Let’s say you are skipping town for a week. You will want to see how your fish hold up over seven days without food.

But it’s not just the food you want to stop. You need to skip all maintenance as well. After all, you won’t be performing any chores like water changes while on vacation.

During this time, monitor just how well your fish hold up. Check your fish for health and signs of stress daily and observe how everything holds up.

If your fish can go the distance then congratulations, you don’t need to do anything more. You can go on vacation knowing full well that your fish will be just fine.

However, if you had to end the trial early because your fish were worse for wear, then don’t worry. I have three solutions that you can use to keep your fish full while you enjoy your vacation!

1. Place your friend or neighbor on fish food duty!

Forget a baby sitter, you need a fish sitter!

While a betta or a few goldfish will be relatively easy for even an inexperienced sitter, your reef tank is another story.

If you are lucky enough to be part of a hobbyist club or community, you might be able to convince someone to take care of your fish while you are away.

But failing that, you will need to call in a favor from a friend, family member or neighbor.

Just don’t expect too much…

Remember how much you had to learn when you set up your tank?

It is unfair to think that your neighbor or friend, who doesn’t have the same fishkeeping knowledge, could maintain your tank.

So, the trick is to keep it simple.

Forget water changes, forget cleaning the substrate, forget anything that is even remotely complicated…

Just leave your fish sitter with one simple instruction:

Keep your fish fed.

Now that sounds like a simple instruction, right?

If there is one thing that people who are inexperienced with fish love to do, it’s overfeed.

The best way to get around this is to pre-measure each feeding into a container.

I find that the best way to do this is with a pill organizer. It holds a perfect daily serving of whatever your fish’s favorite food is – kelp flake pellets, algae tabs. You can even use it to store servings of frozen brine shrimp or blood worms.

All your fish sitter has to do is empty each container of food into your tank at the appropriate time – it doesn’t get any easier than that!

You don’t want to come home to a stressed system just because your fish were overfed!

2. Feed your fish electronically – Automatic fish food feeders

Can’t find a good fish sitter?

Your next best option is to call in the help of a robot to keep your fish fed.

I am talking about an automatic fish food feeder.

How this handy device works is actually very simple.

Load it up with your fish’s favorite food, set the timer and walk away.

The auto fish feeder will then dispense portions of fish treats every time the timer activates.

You can even set it up for multiple feedings each day.

Some brands of fish food feeders hold enough food to cover six weeks of feedings – more than enough time to cover the length of your dream vacation!

Want to know more? Check out our guide to the best automatic fish feeders to find the perfect one for you!

3. Food that feeds your fish – Slow release fish food

Slow release fish food is also known as vacation food – yeah, it’s pretty obvious that this product is designed to feed your fish while you are away from home.

These little blocks of fish food come in all different shapes, sizes…oh, and flavors! Whether you have bettas, bottom feeders or marine fish, there is a meal that your fishy friends will enjoy.

At first glance, slow release fish food doesn’t look like anything special. Just a hard, oversized chunk of fish food.

But how it works is actually quite clever…

Have you ever seen a bath bomb fizz the moment it comes into contact with water?

Well, these blocks of fish food work similarly.

Except instead of dissolving before your very eyes, these blocks of fish food break down over days.

As the block gets softer, it releases food into the tank, much to the joy of your hungry fish.

Slow release fish food is perhaps one of the cheapest solutions to feeding your fish while on vacation – a pack will only set you back a few dollars.

Simply toss a few blocks of food into your tank before you leave.

It’s that simple.

Fish food blocks are categorized by how long they will keep your fish fed.

Weekend feeder blocks last up to 3 days, just long enough to keep your fish fed while you escape for a weekend getaway.

Vacation feeder blocks last up to 14 days, long enough for you to take a long road trip or relaxing vacation.

Here are some of the most popular slow release fish foods on the market…

Brand Lasts for… Suitable for…
TetraPond 14 days Pond fish
Zoo Med 14 days Bottom feeders
TetraVacation 7 days Tropical fish
Zoo Med 7 days Betta
Zoo Med 7 days Fry (baby fish)
API 3 days All fish

Want more info? Check out our detailed slow release fish food guide.

Conclusion

So, there you have it. Three great methods to stop your fish from starving while you are on vacation.

Let’s face it, nothing is going to beat feeding your fish under your own watchful eye…

But these products and services will at least ensure that you have live fish to come home to!

How do you keep your fish fed when you are away from home? Let me know in the comments below!

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